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Cordillera Blanca, Perú

Alpamayo Expedition

When: JUN-AUG

Where: Perú

Length: 6-15 days

Level: Hard

From: $1,404

Overview

The crowning jewel of the magnificent Cordillera Blanca

An astonishing pyramid of snow and ice, Alpamayo is considered the world's most beautiful mountain.

Alpamayo is one of the Cordillera Blanca’s most stunning and renowned specimens. This illustrious mountain, dubbed the world's most beautiful in a 1966 international survey conducted by Alpinismus magazine, attracts ambitious climbers from all over the world.

Every year a number of international alpinists arrive in Perú with the singular aim of ascending its huge Southwest face and with the hope of experiencing for themselves this mountain’s uniquely sublime grandeur.

The mountain holds a something of legendary status and is seen a watermark for any individual's experience in the world of high mountain climbing.

At 5,945m (19,690 feet), it is indeed an exquisite climb.

With 70+ degree slopes of snow and ice, it is technical by nature and definitely requires previous experience and strong fitness. In the French System of technical grading it is rated AD+, but depending on conditions can also be D or D+.

Our suggested itinerary pairs a climb of Alpamayo with an ascent of Quitaraju, the 6040m (19,820 feet) peak directly to Alpamayo's east.

Quitaraju’s north face offers crisp 40 to 55 degree snow and ice climbing, and tops off after a short traverse of the mountain's razor sharp summit ridge.

These two climbs are often proceeded by an acclimatization climb of Huarapasca or Yanapaqcha, both accessible, semi-technical and extremely enjoyable climbs nearby to Huaraz.

Taking 3-4 days simply to get to Advanced Base Camp, Alpamayo is an adventure to get to as well as climb, even including some technical pitches to get to the final camping spot.

Carrying full gear, this is tough. But experiencing the alpenglow light up the West side of the mountain is a sight like no other and well worth the travel.

How skilled/experienced do I need to be? Good question. With the right preparation and acclimatization, as well as a high quality guide - never cut costs with this! - Alpamayo is actually surprisingly achievable. Be sure, it is a big challenge, but it is climbable.

Every year we put together successful groups for Alpamayo, often to a tried-and-tested itinerary (see suggested below) but we also deliver fully customized options including an expedition link-up with the Full Alpine CourseFull Alpine Course.

Read more about Alpamayo or check out this awesome drone footage of Alpamayo.

"I had an incredible experience and would definitely travel with Project Cordillera again. The whole thing blew my mind." Oscar Hjorlund, Denmark

Suggested Itinerary

Day 1 -

Private airport pick-up, and one night in Lima. We'll recommend a tasty restaurant in Latin America's most famous food destination!

Day 2 -

Private transfer and coach to Huaraz. Enjoy views of the giant sand dune and the changing mountains scenery before arriving at your hotel in the mountain town.

Day 3 -

Meet the guides and review your itinerary, go over plans and finalise the expedition details. Spend the rest of the day exploring nearby ruins and getting to know the city.

Day 4 -

Get acclimatized with a day hike to the turquoise waters of Laguna Churup (4500m).

Day 5 -

Leave early for the climb of Huarapasca, a fun, semi-technical peak that's perfect practice for refine skills for the coming climbs.

Day 6 -

Head out to Cashapampa where you'll load the donkeys with gear and supplies. Hike up the beautiful Santa Cruz valley and camp near a big alpine lake en-route to base camp.

Day 7 -

Continue the approach, arriving at Base Camp by the afternoon. Enjoy 360 degree high white mountain views.

Day 8 -

Ascend the steep moraine to the Moraine Camp (4900m), where you'll have an exceptional view of Artesonaraju and Alpamayo.

Day 9 -

Ascend up to the High Camp (5200m), perched on the snowy col between Alpamayo and Quitaraju. Spend the evening in one of the world's most spectacular camping spots.

Day 10 -

Depart from camp and head to the steep summit wall of Alpamayo, then begin the climb up the southwest face, reaching summit in the early morning.

Day 11 -

Rest day, so you can sit back and enjoy the view! If there are any issues affecting timing (such as unstable weather), this day also acts as another opportunity to summit.

Day 12 -

Summit day on Quitaraju (6040m), which offers the same fun, technical terrain as Alpamayo with a bit more elevation.

Day 13 -

Descend all the way back to the Base Camp, and enjoy the feeling of having climbed some truly awesome peaks.

Day 14 -

Hike back out to Cashapampa, returning to Huaraz around 4pm. Check into your Hotel for a hot and well-deserved shower. Meet again for a celebratory feast that evening.

Day 15 -

Last minute gift shopping before departing for Lima at 10am, arriving at the airport or your hotel by 7pm at the latest.

What's Included

Can be included

  • All in-country transport during trip
  • First class bus tickets
  • Hotel accommodations for specified time
  • Professional, certified English-speaking guides
  • All acclimatisation activities and for the duration of the expedition
  • Professional outdoor cook, 3 healthy meals a day plus snacks during the wilderness components of the trip
  • All technical equipment
  • All national park entrance fees
  • All camping and cooking equipment
  • Donkeys or llamas and porters where applicable
  • Sleeping tents
  • Sleeping mats
  • Cook tent, eating tent, tables, chairs, and bathroom tent
  • First aid kit stocked for wilderness expeditions
  • Celebration banquet at the end of trip

Not usually included:

  • International flights and applicable airport taxes
  • Personal clothing and equipment
  • All food during in-town days except the Celebration Banquet
  • Incidental personal expenditures, including emergency evacuations and medical expenditures
  • Insurance: personal travel, high mountain and/or medical insurance

Scheduled Trips

8th Jun 2019 - 21st Jun 2019

This is a Fully inclusive 15-day expedition with all services from Lima to Lima.

Places available Book Now
17th Jun 2019 - 1st Jul 2019

This is a Fully inclusive 15-day expedition with all services from Lima to Lima.

Places available Book Now
13th Jul 2019 - 27th Jul 2019

This is a Fully inclusive 15-day expedition with all services from Lima to Lima.

Places available Book Now
24th Jul 2019 - 7th Aug 2019

This is a Fully inclusive 15-day expedition with all services from Lima to Lima.

Places available Book Now
15th Aug 2019 - 29th Aug 2019

This is a Fully inclusive 15-day expedition with all services from Lima to Lima.

Places available Book Now
2nd Sep 2019 - 16th Sep 2019

This is a Fully inclusive 15-day expedition with all services from Lima to Lima.

Places available Book Now
8th Jun 2020 - 21st Jun 2020

This is a Fully inclusive 15-day expedition with all services from Lima to Lima.

Places available Book Now
1st Jan 1970 - 1st Jul 2020

This is a Fully inclusive 15-day expedition with all services from Lima to Lima.

Places available Book Now
13th Jul 2020 - 27th Jul 2020

This is a Fully inclusive 15-day expedition with all services from Lima to Lima.

Places available Book Now
1st Jan 1970 - 7th Aug 2020

This is a Fully inclusive 15-day expedition with all services from Lima to Lima.

Places available Book Now
15th Aug 2020 - 29th Aug 2020

This is a Fully inclusive 15-day expedition with all services from Lima to Lima.

Places available Book Now
2nd Sep 2020 - 16th Sep 2020

This is a Fully inclusive 15-day expedition with all services from Lima to Lima.

Places available Book Now

Enquiry Form

Expedition Enquiry

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