La Cordillera Blanca, Perú
Alpamayo is one of the Cordillera Blanca’s most stunning and renowned specimens. This illustrious mountain attracts a large number of international climbers each year, all hoping to ascend its huge southwest face and experience for themselves the mountain’s truly sublime grandeur.
Just short of 6,000 meters (19,690 feet), Alpamayo is indeed an exquisite climb. With 70 degree slopes of snow and ice, the climb is technical by nature and definitely requires previous experience. Our suggested itinerary pairs a climb of Alpamayo with an ascent of Quitaraju, the 6040m (19,820 feet) peak directly to Alpamayo's east.
Quitaraju’s north face offers pleasant 40 to 55 degree snow and ice climbing, and tops after a short traverse of the mountain's razor sharp summit ridge. From here, you'll experience the best view imaginable of Alpamayo famous flutings. These two dramatic mountains are often proceeded by an acclimatization climb of Huarapasca, an accessible, fun and semi-technical mountain in the southern part of the Cordillera Blanca.
"I had an incredible experience and would definitely consider using [Project Cordillera] again as the whole thing blew my mind."
- Oscar Hjorlund, Denmark
Customized options are available, including fully-inclusive travel itineraries, expedition services only, independent expedition support, and/or simply hiring a leading guide.
Very Strenuous, Technical, AD+
Very Strenuous, Technical, AD+
Less Strenuous, Semi-Technical, PD+
Private airport pick-up, and a night in Lima.
Private transfer and coach to Huaraz. Enjoy views of the giant sand dune and the changing mountains scenery before arriving at your hotel in the mountain town.
Meet the guides and review your itinerary, go over plans and finalise the expedition details. Spend the rest of the day exploring nearby ruins and getting to know the city.
Get acclimatized with a day hike to the turquoise waters of Laguna Churup (4500m).
Leave early for the climb of Huarapasca, a fun, semi-technical peak that's perfect practice for refine skills for the coming climbs.
Head out to Cashapampa where you'll load the donkeys with gear and supplies. Hike up the beautiful Santa Cruz valley and camp near a big alpine lake en-route to base camp.
Continue the approach, arriving at Base Camp by the afternoon. Enjoy 360 degree high white mountain views.
Ascend the steep moraine to the Moraine Camp (4900m), where you'll have an exceptional view of Artesonaraju and Alpamayo.
Ascend up to the High Camp (5200m), perched on the snowy col between Alpamayo and Quitaraju. Spend the evening in one of the world's most spectacular camping spots.
Depart from camp and head to the steep summit wall of Alpamayo, then begin the climb up the southwest face, reaching summit in the early morning.
Rest day, so you can sit back and enjoy the view! If there are any issues affecting timing (such as unstable weather), this day also acts as another opportunity to summit.
Summit day on Quitaraju (6040m), which offers the same fun, technical terrain as Alpamayo with a bit more elevation.
Descend all the way back to the Base Camp, and enjoy the feeling of having climbed some truly awesome peaks.
Hike back out to Cashapampa, returning to Huaraz around 4pm. Check into your Hotel for a hot and well-deserved shower. Meet again for a celebratory feast that evening.
Last minute gift shopping before departing for Lima at 10am, arriving at the airport or your hotel by 7pm.