Cordillera Blanca, Perú

Huascaran Expedition


Where: Perú

Length: 6-19 days

Level: Hard

From: $1,439


Challenge yourself to Perú's biggest and most famous mountain.

If you're looking for high altitude, a long and hard climb, and a true challenge, Huascaran awaits.

After a few days of acclimatising around Huaraz, climbing begins in the Ishinca Valley. At 5,530m (18,140ft), Ishinca’s northwest face provides a non-technical warm-up climb. Next is an ascent of Tocllaraju’s northwest ridge to gain altitude and test your skills on steeper, more exposed terrain. After these two peaks you will have a day off in Huaraz for rest and recovery before summiting Huascaran.

Unique amongst the classic climbs, Huascarán requires the use of several high camps in order to acclimatise and best attempt the summit. You’ll move from the town of Musho up to base camp with the assistance of pack animals, then onward to your first glacier camp at 5,100m (16,730ft). From there, the legendary advancement through the garganta or “throat” of the mountain takes you to your final camp in the col between the northern and southern summit at 6,000m (19,690ft). Two summit days are scheduled to allow for inclement weather and tired climbers.

"I think organizations like Project Cordillera are great because they allow conscious adventurers to directly give back to the communities where they are climbing or trekking."
- Sadie Quarrier, Senior Photo Editor at National Geographic Magazine

Meet the Mountains: Huascaran

Suggested Itinerary

Day 1 -

Private airport pick-up, and a night in Lima.

Day 2 -

Private transfer to the coach station and a comfortable first class ride to Huaraz, approximately an 8 hour journey.

Day 3 -

Meet the guide leader to review your itinerary, answer questions and finalise the expedition details. Spend the rest of the day exploring the nearby pre Inca ruins of Wilkawain.

Day 4 -

Day hike to the turquoise waters of Laguna Churup (4,500m), a 6 hour round trip.

Day 5 -

Ice climbing at a nearby glacier to test out your equipment and review some basic climbing techniques and glacier travel skills.

Day 6 -

Drive up to the small mountain village of Pashpa where the trail to the Ishinca base camp begins. Load the donkeys and begin the 8 mile hike to the top of the Ishinca Valley where we will make our base camp at around 4,100m.

Day 7 -

Pick your way through the delicate Andean tundra and gain the glacier of Ishinca around sunrise. Once on the glacier, wind your way through some impressive crevasses and up to the high saddle, then follow a final ridge to the very top.

Day 8 -

Rest day with many single day options.

Day 9 -

Taking only essentials, head to the high camp of Tocllaraju. It takes about 6 hours to reach the camp at 5,000m. Enjoy a truly unforgettable dinner while mesmerized by Tocllaraju’s impressive west face.

Day 10 -

Begin the classic ascent up Tocllaraju's north ridge. Things get steeper as you climb, with two sections of 60-80 degree snow and/or ice. Return to high camp and after a rest and some warm food, continue back down to base camp.

Day 11 -

Enjoy a well deserved lie-in and wake to a delicious breakfast before packing up camp and loading the donkeys for the return to Huaraz. Get a hot shower and some rest and start to get excited for the big one - Huascaran.

Day 12 -

Rest day in Huaraz. There are opportunities to go biking, rock climbing, or just hang out and check your email.

Day 13 -

After picking up fresh supplies, leave for the village of Musho at 10am. Load the donkeys and hike to the base camp of Huascaran.

Day 14 -

Ascend to Camp One, located on the glacier (5,100m).

Day 15 -

Continue up to Camp Two, in the col between Huascaran Norte and Sur (6,000m).

Day 16 -

Summit day on Huascaran (6,746m). Start early for the summit ascent, arriving back at camp around 2pm. After a break and some warm food, you'll continue the descent to Camp One.

Day 17 -

Rest day. If there are any issues affecting timing (such as unstable weather), this day also acts as another opportunity to summit.

Day 18 -

Continue to descend to the trailhead and return to Huaraz. Check into your hotel before meeting again for a celebratory feast that evening.

Day 19 -

Last minute gift shopping before departing for Lima at 10am, arriving at the airport or your hotel by 7pm.

What's Included

Can be included

  • All in-country transport during trip
  • First class bus tickets
  • Hotel accommodations for specified time
  • Professional, certified English-speaking guides
  • Professional outdoor cook, 3 healthy meals a day plus snacks during the wilderness components of the trip
  • All technical equipment
  • All national park entrance fees
  • All camping and cooking equipment
  • Donkeys or llamas and porters where applicable
  • Sleeping tents
  • Sleeping mats
  • Cook tent, eating tent, tables, chairs, and bathroom tent
  • First aid kit stocked for wilderness expeditions
  • Celebration banquet at the end of trip

Not usually included:

  • International flights and applicable airport taxes
  • Personal clothing and equipment
  • All food during in-town days except the Celebration Banquet
  • Incidental personal expenditures, including emergency evacuations and medical expenditures
  • Insurance: personal travel, high mountain and/or medical insurance

Scheduled Trips

17th Jun 2019 - 30th Jun 2019

This is a 14-day expedition that includes Urus, Ishinca, Tocllaraju and Huascaran. Team size: 4. Price: $2,940.

Places available Book Now
1st Jul 2019 - 19th Jul 2019

Fully inclusive 19-day expedition with all services from Lima to Lima. Includes acclimation activities as well as guided climbs of Huascaran, Tocllaraju and Ishinca. Max. team size: 8. Price: $3,685.

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13th Jul 2019 - 27th Jul 2019

6-day Huascaran Expedition that follows a 15-day Alpamayo Expedition. Max. team size: 8. Price: tbc

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22nd Jul 2019 - 4th Aug 2019

This is a 14-day expedition that includes Urus, Ishinca, Tocllaraju and Huascaran. Team size: 4. Price: $2,940.

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12th Aug 2019 - 25th Aug 2019

This is a 14-day expedition that includes Urus, Ishinca, Tocllaraju and Huascaran. Team size: 4. Price: $2,940.

Places available Book Now

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Essential Trip Info

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