Cordillera Blanca, Perú

Tocllaraju Expedition


Where: Perú

Length: 4-14 days

Level: Intermediate

From: $839


Probably the most enjoyable way to join mountain climbing's 6,000m club

A beautiful, challenging and exhilarating mountain, yet accessible for those new to mountaineering.

Tocllaraju is a big, challenging mountain - even experienced mountaineers will have their breath taken away.

However, this is one of the few mountains in the world where you can reach heights of over 6,000m without prior experience or technical skills.

If you consider yourself fit, and with the resilience to climb big mountains, but are yet to record significant experience at altitude, this could be for you.

A mellow 4-6 hour hike from the trailhead in the small village of Pashpa takes you to base camp at the head of the beautiful Ishinca Valley.

Usually the first climb of our Tocllaraju Expeditions is Urus Este, ascending the east ridge to its 5,420m (17,780ft) summit. This is a tough, rocky uphill climb and a good way to experience the gritty challenge inherent in almost all mountaineering experiences.

From Urus Este's summit, you'll have spectacular views of Tocllaraju, which dominates the whole landscape, as well as numerous other snow-covered mountains.

Urus is a great peak for acclimatization, but all in all it is a relatively short climb. This allows ample time during the day for focus on preparation, rest andreadying for the longer climbs to come.

Next up is Ishinca (5,530m); this is the perfect preparation for Tocllaraju, offering a higher summit and a much longer climb than Urus. A rest-day follows: a welcome pause before ascending to Tocllaraju's high camp.

The northwest ridge of Tocllaraju offers a pleasant combination of rolling, non-technical terrain and sections of steep climbing where you can apply the skills you've practiced on Ishinca and Urus Este.

Rest days at base camp are included in all itineraries, as this allows for crucial respite, a chance to refuel with food and hot drinks, and even additional adventure opportunities should the weather disrupt the planned order of things.

There's plenty of boulders in the valley, if a touch of rock climbing is of interest. The beautiful creek, high cliffs, surrounding mountains and the lush valley itself - not to mention to starlit sky - all make for incredible photography too.

In fact, base camps don't get much better than this: incredible views in every direction, and every night the west facing Tocllaraju is lit up by the setting sun creating a beautiful alpenglow on the famous Andean flutes of snow and ice.

We work with a number of the best guides and outfits in Perú, and every year we put together numerous set and customized expeditions to Tocllaraju.

We've put together many groups who have successfully climbed Tocllaraju, and who have done so with very different itineraries. So, whatever your preference, get in touch and we'll try to tailor to your needs.

“I felt safe, educated and was having the time of my life! Attention to detail, quality chat, and one of the best instructors I've ever had the privilege to meet." Tegen Northam, London, UK

See also:
Firsthand account of a climb up Artesonraju.
Prepare for Tocllaraju with this Full Alpine Course

Suggested Itinerary

Day 1 -

Private airport pick-up, and a night in Lima. We'll recommend a tasty restaurant in Latin America's most famous food destination!

Day 2 -

Private transfer to the coach station and a comfortable first class ride to Huaraz, approximately an 8-hour journey.

Day 3 -

Meet the guide leader to review your itinerary, answer questions and finalise the expedition details. Spend the rest of the day exploring the nearby pre Inca ruins of Wilkawain.

Day 4 -

Day hike to the turquoise waters of Laguna Churup (4,500m), a 6-hour round trip.

Day 5 -

Ice climbing at a nearby glacier to test out your equipment and review some basic climbing techniques and glacier travel skills.

Day 6 -

Drive up to the small mountain village of Pashpa where the trail to the Ishinca base camp begins. Load the donkeys and begin the 8 mile hike to the top of the Ishinca Valley where we will make our base camp at around 4,100m.

Day 7 -

Pick your way through the delicate Andean tundra and gain the Urus glacier around sunrise. Once on the glacier, wind your way through some impressive crevasses and up to the high saddle, then follow a final ridge to the very top.

Day 8 -

Rest day. There are opportunities for rock climbing, a day hike, or skills practice.

Day 9 -

Summit day on Ishinca (5,544m), which offers about a 4 hour longer climb than Urus but the same technical difficulty.

Day 10 -

Rest day. There are opportunities for a day hike or skills practice, to prepare for your Tocllaraju climb.

Day 11 -

Taking your essentials, head to the high glacier camp of your final mountain, Tocllaraju. It takes about 6 hours to reach the camp at 5,000m. Enjoy a truly unforgettable dinner while mesmerized by Tocllaraju’s impressive west face.

Day 12 -

Begin the classic assent up Tocllaraju’s north ridge. Things get steeper as you climb, with two sections of 60-80 degree snow and/or ice. Return to high camp and after a rest and some warm food, continue back down to base camp.

Day 13 -

Enjoy a well deserved lie-in and wake to a delicious breakfast before packing up camp and loading the donkeys for the return to Huaraz. Meet again for a celebration banquet that evening.

Day 14 -

Last minute gift shopping before departing for Lima at 10am, arriving at the airport or your hotel by 7pm.

What's Included

Can be included

  • All in-country transport during trip
  • First class bus tickets
  • Hotel accommodations for specified time
  • Professional, certified English-speaking guides
  • Professional outdoor cook, 3 healthy meals a day plus snacks during the wilderness components of the trip
  • All technical equipment
  • All national park entrance fees
  • All camping and cooking equipment
  • Donkeys or llamas and porters where applicable
  • Sleeping tents
  • Sleeping mats
  • Cook tent, eating tent, tables, chairs, and bathroom tent
  • First aid kit stocked for wilderness expeditions
  • Celebration banquet at the end of trip

Not usually included:

  • International flights and applicable airport taxes
  • Personal clothing and equipment
  • All food during in-town days except the Celebration Banquet
  • Incidental personal expenditures, including emergency evacuations and medical expenditures
  • Insurance: personal travel, high mountain and/or medical insurance

Scheduled Trips

27th May 2019 - 2nd Jun 2019

This is a 7-day expedition starting in Huaraz, that includes Urus, Ishinca and Tocllaraju. Max. Team Size: 8. Price: $1,320.

Places available Book Now
12th Jun 2019 - 25th Jun 2019

This is a 14-day expedition that includes Urus, Ishinca and Tocllaraju. Max. team size: 8. Price: $2,565.

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24th Jun 2019 - 30th Jun 2019

This is a 7-day expedition starting in Huaraz, that includes Urus, Ishinca and Tocllaraju. Max. Team Size: 8. Price: $1,320.

Places available Book Now
29th Jul 2019 - 4th Aug 2019

This is a 7-day expedition starting in Huaraz, that includes Urus, Ishinca and Tocllaraju. Max. Team Size: 8. Price: $1,320.

Places available Book Now
26th Aug 2019 - 4th Sep 2019

This is a 7-day expedition starting in Huaraz, that includes Urus, Ishinca and Tocllaraju. Max. Team Size: 8. Price: $1,320.

Places available Book Now
16th Sep 2019 - 22nd Sep 2019

This is a 7-day expedition starting in Huaraz, that includes Urus, Ishinca and Tocllaraju. Max. Team Size: 8. Price: $1,320.

Places available Book Now

Enquiry Form

Expedition Enquiry

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